connect wood stove to this prefab chimney ceiling connection - see pic
I want to install a new wood stove with 6 inch double wall pipe to the prefab chimney ceiling connection shown in the attachment pic at the top of a brick alcove in my living room. I dont know what type of prefab chimney I have as it was installed 22 years ago - built in when the house was constructed. There is a wood beam 6 inches away near the ceiling connection (not shown in pic). 1) What brand/type/model of chimney adapter should I use 2) What brand/type of double wall stove pipe should be used. Do I need to add heat shielding on the ceiling and on the wood beam? The width of the alcove is 44 inches wide by 48 inches deep and their is an air gap behind the brick - 1 inch on the sides, 4 inches on the back. My stove is a vogelzang tr009. Thanks, h. Updating my post: I stumbled upon a SuperVent JSC6ASE Chimney adapter and found it fit perfectly (see pic). Now all I need is to find some double wall pipe with an elbow to move it away from the wall. You need to make sure the insulated chimney is still approved. many of those old chimneys have been condemned and are not allowed to be used. You also need to contact your insurance company because most policies need to have the fact you have a wood burning appliance written into the policy. While you are checking the authority out, I don't believe you can use an over-under adapter to a locking hub. I would see if there is a locking adapter out there. most policies need to have the fact you have a wood burning appliance written into the policy. Assuming most policies are like mine - I pay an extra premium because I have a wood stove [$50 extra per yr] Ours is $100.00/year. A few years ago there were a few wood appliance fires, one of which was a total loss that was not covered. After this our insurance company made us update the installation details along with photos of the furnace, clearances and the chimney connection. The uninsured loss was a mobile home that didn't report installing an air tight heater in an addition. hmmdoggie, if the existing flue is 22 years old, I would definately inspect the inside of the liner to make sure it's in perfect condition. I know we're talking big bucks to replace the existing, but it's tough trying to replace your house in the middle of the winter too! lol To recap the project: 1) Despite trying, I could not hire anyone willing to do this work - I was stuck doing this myself. 2) Locating the chimney adapter was extremely difficult as there were no marks and the prefab chimney is completely enclosed all the way up. 3) This was a close clearance connection so I had to use double wall pipe and 2 x 45 elbows to route under a combustible beam. I cut away part of the sheet rock exposing a beam 2.5 inches further in. Clearances are 6 to wall. 4) I used google sketchup 3D to determine route the black pipe while maintaining clearance from the beam. From that I figured out what sections to order and their lengths. 4) My chimney adapter is supervent (selkirk) so that implied I had to use their DSP doublewall pipe. Instead, I used Duravent DVL pipe as it had reduced offset with the elbows and better adjustable options. Selkirk tech support said it was ok to connect their adapter directly to DVL pipe. Duravent support would not return my calls despite buying their product. 5) I needed but didn't have help moving the 350 lb (160kg) stove from the garage, up 2 steps into the house , down 1 step to the sunken living room then into place in the alcove. I used a 4 wheel dolly and managed to carefully lift it up the steps without hurting myself. I took out the bricks from the stove which helped a little. 6) Installing the black pipe required that I pre-assemble the whole thing with screws then put it in place - then pull down the telescopic section onto the stove while holding everything up. I put screws in to lock the telescope section. 7) Now its inspection time then notifying my insurance company. Also having my chimney cap looked at for sealing (see pic). Please let me know if I should check anything else. I did a visual inspection of the chimney section (straight up) and it seems fine as the chimney was never used. I did have to put the sheet rock back and add a heat shield to the close section of wall near the ceiling connection. Originally, I was told (by the county) more clearance was needed there but the inspector who came out said I should have left it alone. I know do drywall repair now.
Related Posts:
Hart cooley double wall chimney pipe
Hart Cooley Double Wall Chimney PipeHello, I just purchased from a private source 12 feet of Hart Cooley Double Wall Chimney Pipe Model D. It appears that the connectors are different. Does anyone...
Entire house heated by wood stove
Entire House Heated by Wood StoveAttached is a drawn floor plan of my house. (Sorry for the bad handwriting). The attachment shows where I think would be the best place to put my wood stove. I wan...
How to properly lay a block chimney
properly lay a block chimneyHey, I 'm installing a wood boiler in my garage and need to build a single flue block chimney up the back side of my garage, Appx 16'-20' from ground. I know i need to...
Gas furnace chimney cap
Gas Furnace Chimney CapI live in Central New Jersey and need a new chimney cap for my gas furnace. I've been lead to believe that there are safety considerations perculiar to choosing a chimney ca...
Ever hear of woodland wood burning stove
Ever hear of Woodland wood burning stove?I bought one second hand and am looking for info on it. Thanks. mlminin, Here you are, http://www.woodlandstoves.com/ Hope this helps! Thank you very much....
