Thursday, February 27, 2014

peerless-hydrostatic-transmission

Peerless Hydrostatic Transmission


Hi there, I adopted a murray rider with a 17HP Briggs twin and a peerless hydrostatic transaxle. It runs great but drives impossibly slow. I pulled the transaxle out and looked in the little fill plug holes. They both seemed full but I have been draining it overnight anyway. Should I pull it apart to clean it out and if so, are these repairable? I have seen alot of info online about these being throw aways. I also hear about flushing them and going through an air purge process but I can't seem to locate the actual process. Or should I just transplant this nice big engine into my old 12HP wards rider? Thanks for any help. PS as for the transplant idea, Can anyone tell me if the shaft size on the 12 and 17 HP briggs are the same? They look like they are close but I am looking through dark grass filled holes. Nathan You need to post the model number of the trans for us to help AJ Yep, really need the trans model no. I'm guessing it is VST 2xx. Following is service manual with a very abridged section on the VST. http://www.cpdonline.com/691218.pdf Tecumseh/Peerless Motion Driveline Transmissions and Differentials For the engine swap, the PTO end of crank could very well be the same, 3 5/32 X 1, but can't tell for sure unless stack pulleys interchange. The wards hood may not fit over the 17hp. I'll check the model # of the trans tonight after work. It is a VST. I had the manual you posted a link for and unfortunately there is little or no helpful repair info in there. In general, can anything be gained by opening these things up? Thanks again. As for the transplant, I'll pull the stack pulleys loose on both and check fit. I think the hood will fit with minor cut outs but I am not sure about the gas tank's current location. We'll see. Well, I guess I am not sure if it is a VST. The model just says 205-024C. It's a VST. Do you have a good drive belt ? I replaced the belt when I adopted the mower. The idlers look and feel good as well. I split the cases on the trans about an hour ago. It has some really silvery looking oil in it. I suspect a fair amount of aluminum wear. How exactly does the thing work? The gearing all looks good but The pump doesnt really look like a pump to me. I'd say if the oil has aluminum in it, then the pump is probably shot. I think I'd locate a good used tranny and stick that in there instead of putting the engine on an old mower unless the murray is in hopeless shape otherwise. I have thought about that and may look into that but I do really like the wards mower. It is fast and easy to operate just shy on power in deep grass. It is also in better shape that the newer murray. Thanks to the help I have gotten here so far, I have located the problem it had with diving in the corners. I checked the pulleys last night and they are interchangeable. Is there any other reason why you would not switch the engines? Thanks, Nathan You can probably do it, clearances behind the engine permitting. The muffler on the Murray is above deck, not below as on some. The starter cable will now be a little too long, better than too short. Probably have two wires coming out of 17hp to connect, one for charging battery, (has diode bulge), one for lights. Length of throttle/choke cables may be a challenge. Would keep an extra couple of pounds air in front tires for extra weight. And the gas tank/fuel line as you mentioned. Only possible unknown is orientation of crank PTO in relation to 4 mount holes between the two engines. Use the wards stack pulley. Sure would be helpful to have bolt pattern info for both motors. The I could make a drill template. I work in metal fab so I am prepared to do some modifications. Do you know of a link to BS mounting data? Thanks, nathan The bolt holes and PTO shaft orientation/position are the same if they are both single cylinder engines. The 17hp twin cylinder engine has a different bolt pattern as I recall, but your wards mower probably already has the holes for that too. You'll probably have a few adaptations to make along the lines that Glen mentioned, but the swap should be very doable and fairly easy.








Related Posts:




  • Modcon boiler peerless purefire diy pm

    Mod/con boiler (Peerless Purefire) DIY PMHi, We installed a peerless purefire boiler with indirect hot water. As I understand it, these generally need yearly service. I'm curious if there are reco...


  • New peerless boiler advice

    New Peerless boiler adviceI’m sorry if this is long winded (trying to get everything in). I’ve been monitoring this forum for a while now, and think it’s great. I now am in need of some advice mys...


  • New peerless wbv04 with tankless hot water is only warm

    New Peerless WBV-04 with tankless, hot water is only warmNeed some pointers here, I just installed this boiler this weekend, and my hot water is lukewarm at best! So anyhow, it is a long story as...


  • Ltx 1842 troy bilt transmission

    LTX 1842 Troy bilt transmission???While mowing today the troy bilt just stopped and will not move. I checked the belts and they were ok. It seems as if the pulley above the transmission is very ha...


  • Need help 4t60e transmission problems

    Need Help- 4T60E Transmission ProblemsI've got a 1992 Olds 98 with the above transmission. Recently cold weather has set in my part of the country (kansas) and the transmission has been acting up...