Advice needed: Undermount sink with granite countertop
Hello, I recently had granite countertops with an undermount sink put in our kitchen. I didn't know that there were different sink reveal options and the contractor didn't say anything about it either. Unfortunately, the contractor just took it upon himself to make this very important decision for me and went with a negative sink reveal, which is my least favorite and would have been my last choice. My question is, is there anyway to change this at this point. I would prefer a positive or flush sink reveal to the negative reveal that I currently have. Also, the contrator installed the undermount sink with silicone caulk ONLY. He didn't use any type of mounting hardware or clips, he just ran a bead of silicone caulk around the perimeter of the sink, stuck the sink under the countertop and then put a couple of boards to hold the sink in place until the silicone dried. When I stick my head down close to the sink, I can see the bead of silicone between the sink and the underside of the countertop. The bead is at minimum a 1/4 wide, and looks sloppy. Is this the proper way to mount an undermount sink and should I have it remounted with clips? Thank you for your help. mross These are details that should have been worked out before you signed on the dotted line. As far as the reveal goes, it's almost impossible to change it now, and would create a major mess in your house if someone tried. As for supporting the sink, silicone alone is not enough. It will almost certainly fall at some point unless it's better supported. The best way is either blind anchors epoxied into holes which are bored into the countertop from underneath, or t-slots routed in with the CNC router that cut the sink opening. The metal clips which come with the sink can be used with either method to hold the sink up. At this point about the only system that can be used is a series of fasteners epoxied to the bottom of the countertop. Chemical Concepts has sink mounts which use a 1/4 stud brazed to a round steel plate about 1 1/4 diameter. Clean the stone with denatured alcohol, then glue the studs around the perimeter of the sink. Use wingnuts to fasten the sink clips to hold the sink flange up to the top. You want the sink tight to the countertop, so you'll have to remove the sink and clean the silicone off both the sink flange and underside of the countertop. Oftentimes the front flange of the sink will set on the top rail of the sink base, thus providing support across the front. Good luck cntrtop, thanks for your advice. If I had known that there different sink reveal options, trust me I would have that in writting. It's obvious to me now, that my contractor didn't have my best interest at heart. How difficult will it be to remove the undermount sink to clean off the silicone caulk? Is it something that I could do myself, (i'm very handy) I can easily disconnect the plumbing and remove the garbage disposal. But then how would I brake the silicone seal that's holding it up in place? Also, does the sink come out from the top or bottom? One I get the sink out is there any possibility that I could buy a slightly larger sink that would show a reveal? The sink I have is a 60/40 sink. Why do you think I have such a large silicone bead (1/4+) between the underside of the countertop and the sink? If the sink were tight to the underside of the counter, I wouldn't have a 1/4 bead, would I? Is it because the sink is not tight to the underside of the counter? Thanks for your help, mross Usually the sink manufacturer will specify the opening size and will have DXF files online which the fabricator can download and export to his CNC router to cut the opening. If he doesn't have a CNC, he may be making a template by hand to guide a manual router to do the cutout. If I understand your original post, the countertop is overhanging inside the sink a little (negative reveal) as opposed to revealing 1/8 or so of the top rim inside the opening. Some sinks have about a 1'4 radius from the flange to the sink wall. If he filled that gap, that would explain the 1/4 wide silicone. Otherwise, it could be that the sink is no closer than 1/4 below the top. If you need to remove the sink, first remove the disposal other drain, then cut the silicone with a utility knife (carefully). The sink should go down and out the front, assuming there's no center stile in the cabinet. Be sure to shut off the water to the faucet so you don't accidentally give yourself a shower. Clean the silicone from the countertop using a single edge razor blade. It doesn't have to be perfect. Then carefully clean the sink with a new razor blade and do final cleanup with a cotton rag and acetone. Clean the bottom of the countertop with denatured alcohol before gluing the sink supports with epoxy. Use long setting epoxy rather than 5 Minute type because it's stronger. Get some 1/4 wing nuts from a local hardware store and use the clips that came with the sink if you have them. It helps to have another person to help hold the sink in place while you install the wing nuts clips. To seal it, get a new tube of clear silicone, cut the tip square across making a hole about 1/16. Apply the silicone by pushing the tip ahead keeping a small bead ahead of the tip. This forces the silicone into the crevice leaving as small a bead as possible. Make sure all voids are full by putting your head upside down in the sink and eyeballing all around the seam area. Once all voids are full, spray alcohol around the perimeter and smooth the silicone with your finger. Keep some white paper towels to use for cleanup with alcohol. Good luck
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