The house I'm buying is a rectangle one story and 1300 sqft. It has an attached garage. The roof was replaced and the outside was painted recently but it appears that they didn't replace the gutters. You can see minor paint peeling already from the rains. I am looking at cost effectiveness. Any ideas what I will spend to install gutters myself? I briefly read about plastic and galvanized. Very much a newb at this so far (not a newb at construction though). So Cal btw.
I would get an estimate from one of the gutter installers that use one piece gutters. They make the gutters on site to match your measurements. No seams=no leaks. I would believe a simple roof could be done for ~$750, but your location will dictate price.
I got my gutters at 1.95 per foot here in NJ. Been 8 yrs and no issues. I see 2.95 per ft advertised now but I think prices have went up since I had them istalled. I think you can still find it cheaper. It cost me about 250.00 for all gutters, leaders ect...... about 114 ft Mike NJ
Anybody think the vinyl gutters will last?
No, and I had them. Dick
If an installer wants to quote gutters with a leaf shield of some sort, you can figure triple the cost of plain gutters.
Originally Posted by goldstar If an installer wants to quote gutters with a leaf shield of some sort, you can figure triple the cost of plain gutters. Good that you brought that up. Can't I just buy that stuff myself and install them after the contractor installs the seamless gutters?
Seamless is the only way to go $5/foot is about the best you can do around here these days, haven't priced any kind of debris guard
I went to the Home store and put those .99cent for 3 ft plastic ones on. Work great. Cost me about $25. ( Oh I see they are $1.96 now) Amerimax Snap-In Gutter Filter - 86270 at The Home Depot
i just spent 80 bucks to install the home depot ones, pictured above, in october. i believe they did a great job but of course without getting up there in spring to actually pop them off and check, ill never know. i do know so far in a very very windy december they are all still up and appear to be functioning though. consumer reports also rated them pretty good if that means anything. very ez to cut and fit where you need to and i had a lot of special areas to do that with. Only problem i have, and i dont know if it's a real problem, is that the water really appears to be coming off them vs into the gutter. i have a thread on here with pics. can you take a peek and see if your guards still have this much water overflowing? http://forum.doityourself.com/roofin...rmal-pics.html
I've heard that spray on foam can now be a DIY project. I've seen the little bottles, kits as they are advertised, but I've heard the professional stuff is available for rent and with due care a homeowner can use. I'm interested in doing my floor boards. Several obstacles are stopping me. 1) I need a source. 2) I'm unsure of SPF can be applied in subfreezing weather 3) I'm unsure of the implications of encasing everything that runs inbetween my floor joists (plumbing, electrical) in SPF is a good idea. Pros: 1) might not be too much more expensive than batts. 2) I'll spend a lot of time cutting batts around obstacles (joist braces too) 3) I'll get a better R value out of it. Thoughts? TIA, Bill
spray foam has almost double the r value of anything out their! If you are trying to insulate the floor joist I would not waste the time or money you will never recoup the money!
I'm confused are you saying spray on foam is a waste of money or insulating floor joists in general?
Do you have a crawl space or a full basement???? if crawl space do the walls but not up in the floor joist. I think you will find the cost is very high for foam.
I have a crawl space. The small cannisters are quite $$$. I do not realistically expect to use them, however an online friend from a while ago said he rented the equipment and the cost was quite reasonable. I'm just not sure where to look or if renting this type of equipment is common. Nor do I know if it can be done in the cold, but since it's (usually) not water based I imagine so. I would rather do the floor joists than the foundation walls because I will then block ventilation from my crawlspace and moisture inevitably becomes a concern.
I will then block ventilation from my crawlspace and moisture inevitably becomes a concern. Thats that wrong way to go. Go read http://aboutsavingheat.com/crawlspace.html Insulation on the wall and a 6 mil poly on the ground over lap it 2'and tape all seams.
Read the article. I can see where a vapor barrier on the floor is a good idea. I had a previous house with that. However there are ventilation grates along the foundation. I've got to think they are there for a reason. To insulate the foundation walls still makes little sense to me if I'm going to leave those vent grates operating. The article does not mention this. (unless you are saying by putting the poly over the floor I can close off the vents - is this true?) This leads me back to insulating the floor joists. Trust me I'd rather not. I'd much rather do the simpler method of the foundation walls. I'm still not understanding the ventilation part though. Thanks, Bill
Bill, Have a pro look at your problem and then work out a solution for foam. Spending $ here on the install but you'll recoup over the years w/ heat saved.
We have had to go back in and take out the insulation up in the floor joist . In so many homes as it just dont work. If you did go to that www. it said close the vents. The crawl space works as a heat sink . We always put small registers in the duct for down there. Homes did that way always use less fuel. l
OK I'm with you Ed, but do you think I just need a return air vent would work better to control humidity than just a supply? PS... I can still put the vapor barrier down but most of the crawl space has a concrete floor. It's broken in parts but appears to have at least a foot of sand, if not more. I'm wondering if the plastic down on it is useful or a waste. Thanks again. I think I'm figuring this out. Bill
Dumb Me If you have the duct down there we put 2 small register outlets and one small one for a return. In some test homes they have did.This way saved about 12% on fuel. Dont forget a R19 block of fiberglass in every joist space all a round the home up there on the sill plate. For what it cost for the poly put it down.
Originally Posted by bill()c I've heard that spray on foam can now be a DIY project. I've seen the little bottles, kits as they are advertised, but I've heard the professional stuff is available for rent and with due care a homeowner can use. I'm interested in doing my floor boards. Several obstacles are stopping me. 1) I need a source. 2) I'm unsure of SPF can be applied in subfreezing weather 3) I'm unsure of the implications of encasing everything that runs inbetween my floor joists (plumbing, electrical) in SPF is a good idea. Pros: 1) might not be too much more expensive than batts. 2) I'll spend a lot of time cutting batts around obstacles (joist braces too) 3) I'll get a better R value out of it. Thoughts? TIA, Bill On this web there are sites that sell or distribute SprayFoam (Slow Rise-SR) a two cylinder kit that covers 600 sqft costs about $715 plus shipping about $50. comes out to be about $1.30/sqft then you have to spray it. I found a place in Lousiana that applies their product for $1.25!!!, and they have an excellent rating with the BBB (www.greenbeaninsulation.com). The temp of the cylinders has to be between 75-85 degrees when applied, and can be warmed inside and they claim that once warmed they retain their heat for a long time(?).
I've also looked into this. I want to insulate my garage and eventually my whole house w/ spray in foam. I think one of the DIY suppliers (self contained kits)was TigerFoam or something like that. All of the suppliers $ were about the same, $1.15-$1.30/square ft. Keep in mind you'll probably need a couple inches to get a good R value. They all sell there product claiming by square foot or by cubic foot. With spray foam insulation a square foot is considered 12x12x1. For a 2 cover you'll have to take you're square footage X2 to get the volume you'll need. 3 MAJOR advantages of spray in foam are: 1) complete vapor seal 2) excellent R-value/ 3) speed of instalation (among other advantages, rot resistance, vibration absorbtion/deadener) This may be one instance a pro is a better option. IF YOU CAN FIND THEM CHEAP ENOUGH. At $1.25/sq ft like above, or even $1.50 and with a good reputation, I'd go with the pro. They probably get the material MUCH cheaper, do it faster, and have already worked out the technique. Personally I don't trust BBB ratings, you need to talk to previous clients, both bad and good revues. On the other hand, if you can't find a contractor with a competitive price, just want to get the experience, or there are no contractors in your area, I think the DIY is the way to go. Do a couple practice sprays first. (I recently turned my Dad, a General Contractor in Wyoming on to this DIY foam. There are no contractors in the area that do it, so they have to ship 'em in from other areas, $$$$) Personally I would be a little nervous about renting the equipment, afraid I'd ruin it and end up paying for it. I'd also put markings on the joists and take pictures before of where all of the mechanicals are located. As for insulating crawl space I've never done the floor. We always used rigid foam on the inside of the walls, then cut removeable rigid foam (2+) pieces to insert in the grate openings during cold months, and put down thick mil poly on the floor. I'd be interested to know what you decide and how it goes. JC
have you, has any one used or considered using the European style multi foil layer insulation, like Airtec but more technologically advanced. There are several available, like SF19 Superfoil Quilt, Actis Triso, Superquilt, its like they use on space craft, and as I understand it was developed from the French Space Progamme , its whole lot of bucks as it works out to $2.50 sf but if its good enough for NASA types it should be value. It based on reflecting radiation rather than conduction or convection. I dont think there is a perfect product, one that fits all situations, so you have to use which suits each part the best, thats the pocket book, the amount if work required, the value achived. Spary polyurethne is great, its also most insulation for least volume, but once its in its in so dont get it places you dont want it. Trimming and clean up can take time and there is waste from the trimming.
Funny you mention it, I am considering the foil insulation. You're right, it seems pricey (apr $50/2'x25' roll or $100/4'x25' roll)(apr $1.00/sq ft, actually pretty good). That was the price at my local Lowes, about the same I found online. I haven't seen the stuff you're looking at, $2.50/sq ft, probably thicker than the 3/8 stuff I'm looking at. I'm considering it for insulating the inside of my garage door. As the garage door will be replaced in the next few years I don't want to spend big bucks on permanent instalation. With the foil if I staple and tape it, I can reuse it. Me being a bit of a tightwad, I started brainstorming alternatives (because of the price). I came up with using foil space blankets that you can get at most sporting good stores, as the face and back, then some combination of bubble wrap and/or foam batting (from the fabric store). I haven't got as far as pricing and making sure it would work. It probably won't be as good as the actual product, but its gotta do something. That stuff (foil insulation) is pretty cool, though. You can get up to R-14 in 3/8. JC
Foil is only effective for radiant heat, in space this makes sense as there is no air movement (convection) because of the vacuum in space. While it is somewhat effective here on earth all claims made by proponents should be taken with a grain of salt as it's not really effective against conduction and convection heat transfer.
Hi Don't know much about your problem, but just yesterday I used a polyurethane spray on foam kit to insulate my Rim/Band joist areas. I have to say, it worked out great. The foam is made by fomo and called handi foam, tiger foam makes the exact same product and i think it may all be the same manufacturer. Anyways, after preping, I had to put a space heater on both tanks (propane size, 60lb each) for 2 hours. Once their around 75 to 85 deg you can spray. It sealed everything perfectly. In fact with the 600 board foot kit, I got all the joists done in about 25 minutes, it dries in about a minute and I still have 21lb, 1/3 of the kit left over. It is a bit messy though, so wear gear. Very little odour and no flamability issues when spraying. just keep some ventilation going. Check their web sites if your interested. Mike
Tags: spray, foam, spray foam, crawl space, floor joists, floor joist, foundation walls, good idea, they have, about same
I've got a failed kitchen faucet, 4 hole type, single handle and a squirter. Very standard Moen faucet. I see in the instructions they provide a special tool for installing the thing. I need to take it out but am not replacing with a Moen. Is there a trick to removing that single nut or whatever it is so I can take out the old faucet easily? It's mounted to a typical dual sink stainless steel unit. I'm asking this question without having actually looked at the install since it is in a rental house. Thanks Much
I'll take a guess that you are talking about the nut that goes on the threaded rod in the center of the faucet, if so and you don't have the Moen tool you will need a deep socket to get it off, best I can do, luck.
Done. Basin wrench worked on the nut. Of course it took me 5 mins to get it off and 3 hours to get back on my feet :-) Gettin' much too old for this back-breaking crap. It was actually pretty easy to break loose since it was in only about 5 years. Crappy faucets these moen's, the actual spigot part rotted out, not the cartridge. Put an Am Standard in its place, life time warranty on it and it was less than 50 bucks.
You poor guy. That must have been a battle, trying to get that to fit between the H C copper water lines coming down through that same hole. Next time, I'd go out and get the right sized nut driver, if the nut is say higher up the threads than say even a deep socket can go.
Actually, the basin wrench worked well. From now on, Am Std faucets. Big plastic nut to hold in place, easy to put in, easy to take out. Replacing the bathroom faucet next week. The water in the house is from a well, tough on pipes and fixtures.
[QUOTE=rmmagow;1648411]Done. Basin wrench worked on the nut. Of course it took me 5 mins to get it off and 3 hours to get back on my feet :-) Gettin' much too old for this back-breaking crap. It was actually pretty easy to break loose since it was in only about 5 years. Crappy faucets these moen's, the actual spigot part rotted out, not the cartridge. Put an Am Standard in its place, life time warranty on it and it was less than 50 bucks.[/QUOTE If you had the paper work for the Moen they are guaranteed for life also; the one I have in my house (20 yrs) I've never had any problems with getting parts free with a phone call.
Tags: removing, moen, kitchen, faucet, wrench worked, years Crappy faucets these moen, about years, about years Crappy, about years Crappy faucets, about years Crappy faucets these, actual spigot
The gasket of my 96 Ford Taurus had been replaced twice in 1998 and 2001, respectively, due to oil leak. Now an oil leak happened again. I am just about to sent it to garage when I saw a kind of sealer yesterday, called CD-2 Heavy Duty Sealer (Engine oil stop leak). This is first time I am aware of its exist. I would like to know if anybody has experience of using this kind of stuff. Will it hurt engine? Should I try it first before have the gasket replaced again? Thanks in advance for any advice.
Don't bother There is no such thing as miracle in a can. What gasket and engine are you talking about? Maybe you have a clogged or bad PCV thats blowing out the gasket?
I just recently discovered these so called oil leak stopper products. With so many snake oil products on the market today, I had to stop and think if I had seen this oil leak stuff before. I have decided that I have never seen an oil leak 'stopper' before. Of course I'm not talking about Lucus, Rislone, STP and thick oil products that have been around forever. I barely noticed the product, but I have an extremely vague memory of the back of the bottle referring to tiny small, slow seeping oil, rather than a typical oil leak or drip. In other words, the small print on the back negates the large label on the front. I also do not recommend these kinds of additives. If this oil stop leak product is as new as I think it is, then a testimonial, good or bad, is not likely to be forthcoming.
Stop leak additives are a waste of money and can cause further damage. They thicken the oil quite a bit and contain an additive that swells rubber seals and makes them soft. The problem is that these seals will deteriorate like this, over time, and you will wind up with more leaks than you started off with. Not to mention that your oil viscosity is not what it should be when you add this stuff.
Cheese said it well. If you have a torn seal or any kind of gasket leak, it will be useless. Have you checked your PCV system. There's probably a reason for these repeated oil leak problems. They can come from any number of gaskets or seals. Are the same ones failing or are you repairing different leaks.
It sounds sorta like the old used car lot trick by adding a tablespoon of brake fluid to a leaking or slipping tranny. It swells the seals and makes it APPEAR to function properly. Then in a few months you have worse leaks than was there before. As many have said here.... NO such thing as a miracle cure in a can. Proper maintenance is the key to longevity in anything. Billy Larry said it best though.... If you would post the pertinent info maybe someone here can help you figure out what is causing this.
Thanks all your advices. Some clarifications: The gasket that was replaced twice is an engine oil pan gasket. Both works were done at Ford dealerships. The leak is not heavy, probably several drops each time when parking at a place. I have not had the car checked (but will later), just guess it might be a gasket problem again. It seems that I should not use that sealer for the leak. I am just wondering if it is a design issue of 96 Taurus since Ford re-modeled Taurus at that year. Anyone out there have similar problem with 96 Ford Taurus? BTW, what is PCV system? Thanks again for responses.
PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. On OLD cars (pre 1969 i think) the crankcase was vented with a tube and all the oil and normal blow by gases from combustion floated into the atmosphere (yuck!) so now on cars, there is what's called a PCV valve and some tubing. Basically what this system does is it pushes the blow by and oil vapours back into the intake to be reburned, it is a cycle. If a tube gets clogged or if the valve gets stuck closed, the pressure that pushes the contaminated air now just builds up and eventually blows out a seal. Think of the piston moving up and down, when the piston moves up, a vacuum is created in the crankcase, a one-way valve allows fresh air into it. On the down-stroke, the pressure increases (like blowing up a balloon) this pressure normally drives some air through the PCV system back into the intake, but if the PCV tubes or valve is clogged/stuck, the high pressure air goes nowhere. However, after time, this high pressure-low pressure-high pressure etc stresses the oil seals (and perhaps other things) to the point of failure. Hopefully someone can verify this as I am not a pro!
that was a pretty good explanation kurt, except for one thing. on most cars, the pcv valve has intake manifold vacuum behind it, and it sucks the fumes(blow by, and all) from the crankcase. the other hose, usually behind the air filter somewhere and connected also to the valve cover, is the 'make up' air. it allows fresh (filtered) air to replenish the air sucked out of the crankcase by the pcv. on one extreme, i've seen the 'make up' air hose clogged, and the pcv system produced such a vacuum in the engine, that the engine seals were squealing (from the vacuum behind them) on the other extreme, when the pcv clogs, i've seen rear main seals (and others) blown right out of their holders, from the pressure built up behind them. the pcv valve is basically a controlled vacuum leak, sucking things out of the engine that can cause harm and burning them harmlessly. yuanxd: my cousin had a similiar taurus, (of an unknown year, probably not a 96 or newer though) she came to me one saturday with a bad oil leak right onto the cat converter, which runs right under the oil pan (a fire waiting to happen). the rubber pan gasket was blown out and oil was spraying onto the cat. being late on a saturday, and no stores or dealers open, i did the next best thing. took out the flimsy gasket, put a decent bead of silicone around the entire pan rail, let it dry for an hour, then ran it----no leaks ever again. it was better than a gasket. most engines and transmissions don't use gaskets anymore, just plain silicone. until the day she sold it, it never leaked. FYI
Thank you Mike and KurtDixon for your info.
Tags: leak, sealer, allows fresh, back into, back into intake, before have, behind them, engine that, Ford Taurus, into intake, leak stopper, leaks than
Hi, I wonder if one of you experts could help me out with a capacitor. I have a Lennox hs21-048-1p a/c unit outside. Turned on a/c first time today, I heard air handler in attic running but not getting any cooler, so I looked outside and didn't see fan on outside unit running. Took side panel off and saw the red wire going to capacitor burnt off at capacitor wire terminal. I look in my book and online and I see that this is a dual run capacitor not the big black capacitor that sits next to it which that one is the start capacitor according to my research. Anyway, all the a/c store are closed for the weekend so I could either buy one online or call around monday but I have two questions. This capacitor looks pretty scraped up and small dent at bottom with a black majic marker written on it saying 3 Ton. It has a sticker on it with TGM 50+5 MFD, now I assume that is the part number I also see 440 VAC 50/60HZ. So if I have my terminology right this unit is a 4ton unit, why is there a 3 ton capacitor in it? Doesn't look original, do I replace this capacitor with the same part number? If not, how am I suppose to guess at what part number was original or to put in here? My last thing is, I'm not an a/c guy, but I know what a capacitor is or generally does, would it be safe to say, this capacitor blew and fried the terminal end and about an inch of wire off, or would something else of caused it down the line. I don't see anything else fried. I started it up by going to test mode and the low mode kicked on then high mode so, then I shut it off. Thanks for any help folks. Russ
By the way, as I'm sitting here reading some capacitor posts from folks in the past, I don't know if the experts allready know this but this capacitor is not the black one it's a shiny round silver one with 3 terminals. Fan, Herm, and either C or O, and it's the C or O termnal wire that fried, the other two terminals are fine besides a little bit of corrosion on them. It's 25 miles from the texas gulf, so bound to be some on there. If some kind of numbers are needed off of motor I could try to find those if you need them. Thanks.
put a new end on the burned off wire and hook it back up. The capacitor may be ok and it was just a loose connection that heated up and burned off Check allthe other electrical connections for tightness while you are at it.
I can certainly do that, is it safe to assume the capacitor is okay for this unit. Just has me a little concerned that it says 3 ton in handwriting on it when it's a 4 ton unit. I had the coil assy replaced last year because they sprung a leak and I think they put this capacitor in it then. Just want to make sure that I am not or haven't damaged the unit by having the wrong capacitor in it. Thanks for any info, I appreciate it much. Russ
capacitor sizes vary not by tonnage but by the compressor but a 50 is typically larger than a 3 ton you will most of the time see a 35 on a 3 ton so I think you are OK.
Tags: lennox, capacitor, part number, capacitor black, this capacitor, this capacitor, this unit
Hi, I have a big family, and when it comes to the Holidays my Mom likes to have EVERYONE over for dinner... The problem being the table is too small... currently with the 2 leafs it measures 40 x 60... She wants a table top extender... the problem they cost at least $250 and the only places i can find them, they don't ship to Canada.... So I want to make her one. My question is... how do i make it so it can fold up easily but not have a hinge protruding in the middle of it, and how far can it overhang off the existing table without needing a reinforcement? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks JulieD
I never heard of a table extender before so I took a look on the web. It seems they are just over sized table pads. I don't find the material that table pads are made from to be that strong. To me, anything more than an 6 overhang seems to be pushing it. The overhang is where all the weight is going to be. I don't know what type of material you were planning to use, but I would suggest 3/4 plywood. I think a 12 overhang would be suitable with that material. As far as the hinge is concerned, you need to have the center of the hinge barrel to line up with the surface of the top in order to have it fold flat. So that means part of the hinge will have to protrude. There is a hinge that will do what you want, but plywood is not going to be a good material to use them in and they are expensive. An alternative idea I had was to use folding card tables set at the end of the dining table. Then get a table cloth that is long enough to cover everything. If you can find a table that is really close in height, I think that may be an easier solution.
We go low tech with this and just run card tables off the end of the dining table when the crowd exceeds the capacity of the dining room table
We do that now and that's why she wants the extender...
Adding 1x2s under the part of the plywood that overhangs the table will stiffen it up some but I'd think you need to add legs if the plywood extends any distance.
You could probably lay a full sheet of 5/8-3/4 ply over your existing table without any worries... Thats only 4 on each side..and 12 on each lenght.. I cant see too much of a problem with that.. Unless you're dancing on the table top..!! Round off the edges, table cloth..and you should be good to go... Been there.. done that!! - So long as you have the room in your DR...!
That last option works, but it doesn't with storage after... the reason i want to hinge it is so we can put it away easily....What about a plywood center with a solid frame and barrel hinges.... or am i getting in way over my head?
..Cut the sheet in 1/2, 2-4x4' sections and if you want..recess/inlay a pair of hinges into the plywood to connect the 2. Or..frame the 2 pieces of ply with, say 1x2 stock and join the 2 sections at the sides (the 1x2 frame) with those flat/straight metal plates with holes to be attached with screws...Something like that could work.
I think I've figured it out... thanks guys
/\ .. so .. what did you finally do?
Originally Posted by JulieD I think I've figured it out... thanks guys yeah. what did you come up with ?!
I haven't done it yet but i think i will just go with a sheet of plywood - cut in half or in thirds - dowel it, and add a clamp on the bottom to keep it together so the kids don't pull it apart.... stain it nice and add a trim..... she'll love it so much she won't want to put it away.... now if i can just find the time to do it
Several weeks ago one of the spring cables on my extension spring garage door broke. I weighed the door, realized that the springs that were on there were insufficient, and so I ordered new springs, cables, safety cables, spring pulleys, wall pulleys, and even new brackets for the bottom of the door. Rewind 4 years ago, I had had someone come out to install an opener (free installation), but they wouldn't do it because the rear hanger was torqued and were afraid that the opener would rip the door right off the track. So I decided to go ahead and take this time now to replace the angle iron holding the track up. It was a good decision, I was able to simply bend the old angle iron back on itself and and snap it off...who ever had installed the door (previous owner) had cut one side of the angle iron and bent it to attempt to hold the track in place. So I placed 1 piece of angle iron across the rafters, and created a triangle to hold the rear of the track up. It looks good...but I am concerned. In all the pictures I see of track installation, the rafters run parallel with the track, but in my house they run perpendicular. The result, is that this new angle iron won't prevent the door track from moving side to side! Clearly, I need to brace it perpendicular to the track, but I am at a loss as to actually do that. I am attaching 2 pictures. You can see that the track does not line up perfectly with a rafter. As I don't really have access to above the drywall here, my only thought is ripping the drywall out in those sections, and placing a couple of 2x4's perpendicular between the existing rafters where I need them, and the rehanging this hanger. I am hoping that someone here might have a better idea before I go ripping things up.
Welcome to the forums! Take a piece of the angle you have left over, or buy new and bolt it to the bottom of the vertical piece a couple of hole up and run it to the joist parallel to it and fasten it up there. You may have to cut and bend the end to get a lag through it, but that should keep the lateral travel to a minimum.
I have a Sears Craftsman Model # 917.295554 14, 5 HP rear tine tiller that I lent to a friend and unfortunately, it hasn't run the same since its return home. When I engage the tiller, it will grab and start tilling for 20-30 seconds or so then seem to jump out of gear. I'm sure a new belt couldn't hurt but was hoping that either someone had a link to a manual so I could read up on different adjustments that I'm certain must exist. It was given to me by the wife of a neighbor that has moved on so I don't know how old it is nor did I get the owners manual with it. I'd appreciate any help, tips or suggestions that anyone can offer. I can find the parts diagram from Sears online but no manual to help me with adjustments. Thanks for your time! fnolteiii
Have you checked the shear pins on the tines? If they shear, they may still have enough grab to get the tiller going, but will slip after a few seconds. Never replace the shear pins with bolts, as the shearing feature is what saves the engine if you grab a big rock or root.
Actually spent the time, located a similar manual and read up on adjust the belt tension cable. I adjusted slightly upward and now it seems to be working just fine. In the spring, I will replace the belt as I can see that it has stretched out considerably and that might explain the need to adjust the tension. Thanks for the tip though. While I had the side cover off, I did a thorough debris cleaning especially around the tines and tine shaft which I was amazed at how much stuff was wrapped around that! All seems well for now. Thanks again for the suggestion!
hello all. i have a nutone bathroom exhaust fan with a light. i need to change a burnt out bulb but i'm in need of guidance. the fixture is square with a center glass. there are no screws. i discovered that it will pull down, approximately 2 inches. how do i get it off? i can't see up along the sides to see what needs to be done to get it off. will the glass come off independently of the rest of the fixture? i don't want to force something and i certainly don't want to break the glass! please walk me through this bulb change if you would. thanks in advance.
Normally if you feel around the perimeter you will feel two spring wires (sorta like an open safety pin) on 2 opposite sides. Squeeze the wide ends together and it should come off. Sometimes the glass is not secured in the metal frame around it...but just rests in it. I hope the whole fixture isn't pulling down...but just the lens assy? You may be able to go to the Broan/Nutone site and find a similar model. Pretty sure they have install instructions there.
The grill pulls down from the ceiling. Like Vic said you will see two legs on each side of the grill. Squeeze them together and the grill should release from the housing. You may only need to release one side.
My Heat/Light/Vent has a round metal grill and there are two screws you have to loosen to remove the grill. The screws are accessed through the grill and once loosened you can turn the grill slightly and then drop it (or take the screws all the way out of course). The heads of mine were covered with powder making it hard to see them. Look through the grill for two tabs. The screws are in that.
rfrenkel123, welcome to the forums and thanks for replying to the post with helpful information but the post is almost a year old.
The reason people should reply to old threads is because months and years later, other people are Googling for the same answers to the same questions. I'll chime in and recommend that someone who owns a Nutone fan/light fixture NOT grab the housing and pull down unless you know it is designed like that. Find out which you have by model number and find the installation sheet online. Most do not have model numbers on the outside so do a Google image search on it and look until you see the picture of the one you have, then go from there. My case, I have a Nutone model which has a white plastic housing and a rectangular grey translucent light cover. Inserting a butter knife in the slot that divides the light cover and the housing (long edge) releases a large retaining tab that allows only the light cover to come off. If I had grabbed the side of the housing and pulled down, I would have had to add a trip to Lowes today. Luckily, I did find the literature online.
Welcome to the forums. Thanks for the information.
@sgayres - thanks for your guidance on the lens removal process; I used it to change out the bulb in my NuTone fixture model 763RL9 (apparently will work on model 769RL as well). You are correct in saying that responding to old threads with good information is very useful to others who have the same question months later. The large retaining tab is approximately in the center of the long side. One additional item: replacing the burnt out filament bulb with a CF bulb was a little difficult - the clearance is tight.
Slightly off-topic but this is a good reason to save the installation and operation instructions for EVERYTHING installed in a house. Keep them in a three-ring binder, either by punching holes or by use of the plastic sleeves. When you sell the house leave the binder, the new owners will thank you. This applies to builders as well.
Furd...I do and did exactly that when I sold my last place. Every appliance, furnace, electronic locks, GDO, even the Andersen patio door. I still have the manuals and receipts for every tool or gun I've bought......though might be time to clear some of those out.
rfrenkel - many thanks 2013 i have just changed my fan light and unlike 98%of the web I own a 2 screw model too!!!
Welcome to the forums, Frank, and thank you for the feedback.
Tags: bathroom, exhaust, light, bulb, change, light cover, have model, large retaining, pull down, there screws, through grill
I am installing three 1500 watt space heaters in my old house. They come in 110V and 220V. If both 110 and 220 have the same wattage, does that mean that I get the same amount of heat from either one? If that is the case, why would I want to install the 220V when 110 is cheaper and easier to install? Thanks.
You need larger wire and a larger circuit breaker for 120, and 120 is a little less efficient (although at the typical distances in a residence the less efficiency means little or nothing). Further, you cannot put as many on the same circuit if running them at 120 volts.
If your going to connect all three heaters to the same branch circuit that would be 4500 watts of power. It makes no difference whether you supply it with 120 volts or 240 volts the cost to operate is the same. The cost savings is in the installation. If you are going to supply the 4500 watts on one branch circuit at 120 volts then your load in amps is 4500/120 = 37.5 amps. The branch circuit conductors must be sized at 125% of the rated load. So that puts you at 37.5 x 125% = 46.9 amps. If you use NM-B (romex) cable as conductors you'll need 6 awg copper on 60 amp breaker..... Or if in conduit using THHN you will need 8 awg copper on 50 amp single pole breaker. The problem with the above is I dont think you will find many juristictions that will allow you to supply 120 volt fixed heating on anything larger than a 30 amp single pole breaker for residences. So even two heaters on one branch circuit exceeds 30 amps when calcualted as continuous load(125% of rated load). So you would need 3 branch circuits using #12 awg copper either as a cable like NM-b or in conduit (added cost) to supply these heaters with 120 volts. Each circuit protected with 20 amp single breakers (3 total) If you supply the heaters with 240 volts your load is only 18.75 amps. Conductors then would be required to have an ampacity of 23.4 amps. So using NM-B you would need #10 awg copper and 30 amp double pole breaker...or THHN in conduit would be #10 awg on 30 amp double pole breaker. So at 240 volts you can put the heaters on one branch circuit. You will need one 30 amp double pole breaker (could use a 25 amp if you want) and some #10 awg copper wire either as a cable or wires in conduit. Though #12 copper in NM-b cable or THHN is capable of 25 amps and would appear to ok we are not allowed to use the smaller guage wire as 12 awg copper is not to be protected at more than 20 amps...(unless we are supplying motors.) Roger
You will get the same heat out of either the 120V or 240V heater of equivalent wattage. The advantage in using the 240V heaters is that you can put them all on one 30A circuit using 10/2 wire. If all three heaters are in the same room, you can control them with one thermostat. If you choose the 120V heaters, you need a seperate 20A circuit with 12/2 wire to each heater. This will use up three spaces in the breaker panel and three times the length of cable and three thermostats.
To add a bit to Roger's explaination: 424.3(A) ...Branch circuits supplying two or more outlets for fixed electric space-heating equipment shall be rated 15, 20, 25, or 30 amps. (B) Fixed electric space heating equipment shall be considered continuous load. 210.19(A)(1) ...where a branch circuit supplies continuous loads...[the circuit] shall have an ampacity not less than the noncontinuous load plus 125 percent of the continuous load. This explicitly rules out the possiblity of putting the heaters together on a 120V circuit, but allows putting them together on a 240V circuit.
For Roger or Ben: I'm taking your suggestions to run a 10/2 w ground off a 30 amp circuit breaker so as to wires receptacles for 3 1500 kw heaters. Can you tell me wire the receptacles? Do I use 30 amp receptacles? Do I wire two of them to one leg of the 10/2 cable and the ground, and the other receptacle to the other leg and ground? Many thanks for your advice. Jerry
Baseboard heaters are normally direct wired. From the panel to a 2-pole thermostat. From thermostat to 1st unit. Unit 1 to unit 2, unit 2 to unit 3. All cables will be 10-2 with ground. Feed the circuit with a 2-pole 30-amp breaker. Remark all the whites as blk or red with a magic marker. Connect all the bare grounds together and to the ground screw or wire in each heater.
the only other thing you have to watch out is the linevoltage termostat some have limted on amp rating AFAIK most are rated at 22 amp but however there are some thermosast that can rated much as 30 amp you may have to look around to see if they stock that high a amp rating. [ 22amps @ 240 volts at 5280 watts ] 4500 watt @240 volts is 18.75 amps Merci,Marc
Tags: 220v, 110v, baseboard, heaters, difference, branch circuit, pole breaker, continuous load, double pole, double pole breaker
Cushing's disease is a disorder of the pituitary and adrenal glands in which too much of a hormone called cortisol is made. It is part of Cushing's syndrome, which is a complex of different diseases having to do with too much cortisol. Cortisol has several effects on the body. In excess, cortisol can cause different complications on different organs of the body.
Cortisol Production
Cortisol is a hormone secreted by the adrenal cortex in response to stimulation from ACTH, a hormone secreted by the pituitary gland. Cushing's disease results when the pituitary gland produces too much ACTH, thus triggering more cortisol production.
Cortisol Function
Cortisol has several functions in the human body, mostly to do with response to stress. Cortisol releases glucose (sugar) into the blood, helps store fat, increases the heart rate, and reduces inflammation. Too much cortisol results in Cushing's syndrome.
Effects on the Skin
With Cushing's disease, the skin becomes thin and easy to bruise. Fat also accumulates in excess in some parts of the body just below the skin. Striations, which are purple lines where the skin is thinned, form at the thighs, arms, abdomen, and breasts. Acne is also a common problem.
Effects on the Immune System
Cortisol reduces the function of the immune system. In fact, people whose immune system goes awry are usually prescribed cortisol to tone down the immune response. People with Cushing's disease are more prone to infection and poor wound healing.
Effects on the Circulatory System
Cortisol increases blood pressure and heart rate. This places additional strain on the heart and lungs, as the heart needs to work harder to get blood through the body. The increased pressure to the lungs causes an increase in fluid secretions in the lungs.
Treatment
Treatment of Cushing's disease depends what is causing the pituitary gland to produce excess ACTH or what is causing the adrenal glands to produce excess cortisol. This may be as simple as medication to counter the cortisol or surgery to remove tumors on the glands.
The gear shift cable is found on automatic and manual transmissions.
The shifter cable runs from gear shift to the transmission linkage. It does not matter whether the vehicle is an automatic or manual transmission, because both transmissions have shifter cables. Since the manual transmission has more moving parts, most of the problems recorded occur in this type of transmission. Gear shifter cable problems affect the transmission, linkage and clutch. A number of signs and symptoms point to a shifter cable going bad.
Gear Shift Play
Excessive gear shift play is a good sign that the shifter cable is going bad. When too much slack is in the shifter cable, the gear shift will feel loose or delay the engagement of the the next gear. The shifter cable is stretched, the connection is loose or the cable is not adjusted properly. A loose or worn shift cable in a automatic transmission is visible when you transfer the gear shift from park to drive. The gear marking shows that the transmission is in one of the other gears, such as first gear, when it actually is in drive.
Vehicle Does Not Start
The vehicle will not start if the vehicle is not in neutral or park on an automatic transmission. The shifter cable is not engaging the linkage because of a broken cable, worn cable, damaged cable bushing, cable adjustment or stiff cable. After playing with the gear shift, you can generally get the vehicle to crank, but a broken shifter cable will not allow the gears to shift and the vehicle will remain in the last gear it was in before the cable broke.
Free Gear Shift
Some pressure is felt when shifting gears. If there is free play in the gear shift or the gear shift feels lighter when transferring gears, the shifter cable is damaged. Most likely the shifter cable has fallen off or broken and needs replacement or to be reattached.
Gear Shift Stiff
The gear shift will become stiff if the shifter cable is going bad or requiring repairs. It is common for road debris to build up on the shifter cable, causing it to become stiff. A stiff shifter cable can prevent the operator from shifting into gears, especially reverse, or make him use more force to shift from gear to gear.
Car Stalls
A car will stall if the shifter cable is going bad. Once you release the clutch on a manual transmission, the car will jump and stall if the shifter cable did not engage the next gear. A symptom such as this also occurs if you do not accelerate after the release of the clutch, but drivers with manual transmission experience will recognize there is another problem besides their driving ability.
Noise
During gear shifting, you may hear a grinding noise or chatter because the linkage is not engaging the transmission properly. This occurs when the shifter cable is loose, worn, stretched or the cable bushing is damaged. The vehicle will also show this symptom if the cable is not adjusted properly.
Almost all women have cellulite. Those lumps and bumps under the skin are actually deposits of fat. They form an ugly looking orange-peel texture that is most noticeable on the arms, stomach and thighs. Nivea, makers of Good-bye Cellulite gel-cream and patches, offers dietary supplement tablets. These pills, along with the gel-cream, are part of the Good-bye Cellulite 30-day Body Beauty Program.
Description
The supplements that Nivea makes for cellulite are mostly conjugated linoleic acid from safflower oil (CLA) and L-Carnitine. CLA is an unsaturated fatty acid that has been suggested to increase muscle and burn fat. L-Carnitine is an amino acid that is thought to build muscle. The pills also contain gelatin, glycerol, mate leaf extract, soybean oil, vitamin E and soy, as well as natural and artificial colors.
Safety
The ingredients in the Nivea Dietary Supplement Tablets are considered generally safe. Do not, however, take the tablets without discussing it with a physician. Those with thyroid disease or undergoing dialysis could have problems with the L-Carnitine in Nivea cellulite treatment supplements. Also, gastrointestinal side effects have been reported from some taking conjugated linoleic acid.
Availability
Nivea's cellulite treatment supplements are available at most drugstores, as well as on the Web. They're usually found in the aisle with the cellulite lotions, often next to Nivea's Good-bye Cellulite gel-cream.
Time Frame
Nivea's cellulite treatment supplements, when used in conjunction with the Good-bye Cellulite cream, are said to reduce the appearance of cellulite in 4 weeks. Various factors can influence the time it actually takes--such as remembering to take the supplements each day and following along with the other suggestions in the Body Beauty Plan that include eating a balanced diet and keeping up regular exercise.
Considerations
The pills on their own don't reduce cellulite. They are made to be used with a program of creams, exercise and diet. Although Nivea cellulite treatment supplements may be safe for most, don't take the tablets or change diet and exercise plans without discussing it with a physician.
A toenail infection is not only unpleasant to look at, it is also painful and uncomfortable to anyone who is suffering from one. There are many ointments available for toenail infections, from over-the-counter remedies to prescriptions from the doctor. Most modern medicines take a heavy toll on our health in other areas, however, such as putting a great deal of stress on the liver. Fortunately, apple cider vinegar is a natural home remedy for treating a toenail infection that has proven to be quite effective and simple.
Instructions
Apple Cider Vinegar Soak
1. Pour just enough apple cider vinegar to cover your toes in a small bowl.
2. Submerge the infected toenail in the apple cider vinegar. Keep it under for at least 30 minutes.
3. Dry your toes thoroughly when you are finished soaking.
4. Repeat this process daily until you see results.
Apple Cider Vinegar Bandages
5. Pour a small amount of apple cider vinegar into a cup.
6. Dip a sterile cotton swab in the apple cider vinegar. Then apply the vinegar to the outside edges of your infected toenail. Repeat this process until the toenail is covered and saturated.
7. Apply apple cider vinegar to the gauze pad on a band-aid.
8. Cover the vinegar covered toenail with the band-aid with vinegar on the gauze. Secure it in place and wear it as long as you can.
9. Dry your toes completely when you remove the vinegar band-aid. Be sure to let your toes breathe overnight, as fungus like to grow in dark, moist areas.
Tips Warnings
Keep your toes clean and dry when you're not treating them with apple cider vinegar.
Use one of these treatments daily until you see results. Using apple cider vinegar only on occasion will not treat your toenail infection. If your infection continues after 14 days without showing signs of improvement, see your physician for proper diagnosis.
You probably open and close your window blinds every morning and evening, so any problem with their operation becomes a daily source of annoyance. Try these steps. Keep in mind that most do-it-yourself repairs on blinds void the warranty.
Instructions
1. Lower the blind and adjust the slats to the open position using the tilt cord or wand.
2. Unclip and remove the blind from its brackets. Lay it flat on a large table or other work surface. Follow the steps below as far as your repair requires.
3. Remove any end caps and the cover on the bottom rail to expose the knots or clips that secure the ends of the lift cord and ladder tape or string ladders.
4. If you are replacing the ladders, disconnect them. Otherwise just disconnect the two lift-cord ends, which are clipped or tied to the rail.
5. Pull both lift cords up through the slats as far as needed to remove any damaged slats and feed new ones onto the ladders. Thread the cords back down and secure them to the bottom rail. Then install the cover and end caps.
6. If you are replacing the ladders or lift cords, pull the cords up to the head box.
7. To replace the ladders, disconnect them from the tilt tube in the head box and slide them off the sides of the slats. Slide the slats into the new ladders and attach the ladders to the tilt tube and bottom rail. Thread the lift cords through the slats, alternating back and forth between the ladder rungs, and secure them to the bottom rail.
8. To replace a lift-cord, pull both ends up into the head box, over the pulleys, down and out. If you don't have another assembled blind to refer to, sketch a simple diagram before taking them out.
9. Feed the two ends of a new lift cord back into the head box and over the first pulley. Direct one end over the next pulley and the other one across the head box to the far pulley. Feed both cords down through the slats to the bottom rail and secure them. Install any cover or end caps.
10. Hang the blind.
11. If you've installed new cords, level the bottom rail. Depending on the model, either adjust the lift-cord equalizing buckle or knot the two cords together just above the tassel when the bottom bar is level. Cut the cords, if necessary.
Tips Warnings
If you are replacing venetian-blind cords, you may also cut the replacement into two pieces at least as long as the originals (one is longer than the other), and tie or tape them to the ends of the old cords so you pull the new ones through as you pull the old ones out.
A lift cord on a venetian blind may be two separate cords or one that is looped at the grasped end.
While the cords are out, give the slats a good cleaning. It will never be easier!
Wayne Dalton manufactures a complete line of garage doors and door openers. Although Wayne-Dalton uses Genie openers, they also have their own unique line. Programming a new Wayne-Dalton remote requires activating the remote control before programming the opener. Wayne-Dalton remotes are available exclusively through Wayne-Dalton and Wayne-Dalton authorized dealers. Unlike many openers, the iDrive line has a slimmer power head and the programming button is on the side.
Instructions
1. Press and hold the large button below the smaller ones with your finger. The red LED lights on the control blink rapidly for two seconds and then stay on continuously when the control is activated successfully. Release the button.
2. Set a step ladder under the Wayne-Dalton garage door opener motor head. Press the red Learn button on the side or bottom of the motor head depending on which unit you own. An LED light blinks on the Quantum Classic and Doormaster openers. A single beep emits from the iDrive line of openers.
3. Press and hold one of the smaller buttons on the transmitter. The LED light on the opener will turn off or you will hear a single beep depending upon the opener. Release the button.
4. Continue setting the transmitter for Doormaster units only. Press and release the button again. The LED light will blink and then turn off.
Tips Warnings
As a precaution, pull the emergency cord to release the door from the opener during programming.
An Angel Wing cocktail is a very simple, classic cocktail that was invented around 1900 in London, England. It is not clear anymore who invented the drink, perhaps because there are so few ingredients. However, the Angel Wing cocktail remains an exceptional mixed drink for brandy fans and old-time cocktail connoisseurs. This recipe makes one Angel Wing cocktail, served in the traditional method, in a chilled cocktail glass with a twisted lemon peel for garnish.
Instructions
1. Fill a cocktail shaker halfway with crushed ice.
2. Add the brandy, apricot brandy and cr#xE8;me de cacao to the cocktail shaker.
3. Cover the cocktail shaker and shake vigorously for 15 to 20 seconds.
4. Strain the contents of the cocktail shaker into a chilled cocktail glass.
5. Garnish the drink with a twisted lemon peel and serve.
Tips Warnings
Give this drink a stronger kick with a dash of absinthe added to the cocktail shaker.
If you want a sweeter drink, add a dash of plain simple syrup right before shaking.
Fix your wobbly faucet tap with simple home tools.
If your kitchen faucet tap is loose, fix it by tightening up the screw on the handle. It requires only the most basic skills and tools to complete this fast fix, which stops wobbly handles for good. If you have a screwdriver and know use it, this repair should only take about 10 minutes. No need to call a plumber or contractor --- just roll up your sleeves and get it done today.
Instructions
1. Find the small screw located on the base of the tap handle. This is normally located right along the bottom of the handle in lever-style faucets, and on the very top of the handle in round or ball-shaped faucet handles. If there is a cap on your faucet handle, take it out first before your remove the screw.
2. Tighten the screw with an Allen wrench or a screwdriver --- whichever tool fits into the screw head --- until the handle is securely set on the stem of the cartridge. The stem is the part the handle rests on, and it is located under the handle.
3. Test the handle by operating it. If the handle is still loose, remove the screw and take off the handle by pulling it off the faucet. Slide on a new replacement handle and tighten the screw securely.
Most Whirlpool ovens include a self-cleaning option to remove soil left behind from cooking and baking. The self-cleaning feature uses high heat to burn off food spills, but this method can take several hours and produce smoking. If you want to avoid the time it takes to self-clean your Whirlpool oven, or if the mess isn't extremely tough to remove, you can clean your oven manually. Use mild products to avoid damaging the porcelain in the oven cavity. Clean your Whirlpool oven regularly to prevent staining and burned-on messes.
Instructions
1. Turn off the oven and allow it to cool. Remove any items from inside the oven, including the oven racks.
2. Fill a sink with hot water, and add 1 teaspoon of dish detergent. Place the racks into the sink to soak. Put on rubber gloves.
3. Dip a nonabrasive scrubbing pad or cloth into the sink, and wring it out. Scrub the interior of the oven with the pad or cloth. Rinse the pad or cloth in the sink as needed. Clean the door and the glass, avoiding the gasket.
4. Rinse the cloth or pad with clean water, and wipe out the inside of the oven and the door to remove any soap residue.
5. Dry the oven interior and door with a towel or paper towels.
6. Spray inside the oven window with glass cleaner. Wipe it with a dry cloth or paper towels to remove streaks and restore shine.
7. Scrub the oven racks with soapy water and a non-abrasive scrubbing pad. If the stains won't come off of the racks, scrub them with a steel wool pad.
8. Rinse the oven racks thoroughly with clean water, and dry them with a towel.
9. Apply 1 teaspoon vegetable oil to a soft cloth or paper towel, and wipe the edges of the racks with the cloth. This helps the racks glide in and out of the oven.
10. Slide the racks into place inside the oven, and close the door.
Tips Warnings
Sprinkle baking soda onto tough stains, and scrub them using a circular motion with a damp nonabrasive scrubbing pad. Rinse well.
Don't use oven cleaner or harsh abrasives to clean a self-cleaning Whirlpool oven.
The hydraulic lifter has a main cylindrical body with an internal plunger. When it fills with oil it uses pressure to automatically adjust for zero valve lash, which keeps all the valves opening and closing in perfect timing. The camshaft rotates to move the lifter, which forces pressure on the push rod. The push rod connects to a spring, which instantly forces the valve shut. Not too much can wrong with hydraulic lifters except for normal wear, and then they need to be adjusted. You can adjust the valve lash in your Pontiac without resorting to an auto repair shop.
Instructions
1. Place the vehicle in park or neutral and set the emergency brake. Raise the hood and prop it open. Leave the battery connected. Make sure the engine has warmed up but is just beginning to cool off. Note the components that sit above the valve cover or, on V-8 or V-6 engines, the valve covers.
2. Use a socket and wrench to loosen and remove the bolts or screws securing the air box hose; the plastic engine cover, or plenum; the PCV valve and hose; the throttle cable; the vacuum hoses; and any component impeding access to the valve cover. Refer to your owner's repair manual for these components, their fastener types and locations. Make note of the adjustment setting on the throttle linkage so that you can reinstall it properly.
3. Use a socket and wrench to remove the valve cover bolts on the engine. For V-6 and V-8 models, remove only one valve cover at a time to perform the procedure. Keep the bolts in order; remember their hole location and any bracket that they held. Pull the valve cover off the engine. Be sure not to damage the valve cover gasket. Start at one end of the engine and place a tappet clip on the first rocker arm tappet.
4. Fasten the tappet clip around the tappet so the oil plug fits into the tappet oil hole. You may fit the rest of the rocker arm tappets with clips, to keep the oil spray to a minimum. Start the engine. Starting at the first rocker arm tappet, loosen the locking nut on the rocker arm with an end wrench, just enough to back it off. Keep the end wrench secured around the lock nut.
5. Use a large flat-head screwdriver to turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise just until you hear the rocker arm begin to clack. Turn the adjusting screw clockwise 1/4 turn and hold it while you tighten the locking nut clockwise -- this seats the hydraulic lifter to 0 lash. Perform the identical procedure on the next rocker arm. After you have moved halfway down the bank of the engine doing the adjustments, remove the tappet clips to let the rocker arm shaft lubricate for a minute, then replace them.
6. Remove the second valve cover if you have a V-6 or V-8 and perform the same procedure. When finished with the adjustments, shut the engine off and remove all of the tappet clips. Wipe down any sprayed oil on the gasket. Replace the valve cover and insert the bolts. Tighten the valve cover bolts firmly and evenly with a socket and wrench.
7. Clean any sprayed oil on the exhaust or intake manifold with carburetor cleaner and a rag. Insert the bolts and screws onto any components you removed above the valve covers and tighten them with a screwdriver or socket. Start the engine and let it run. Some oil smoke will be normal; it will eventually burn off.
Tips Warnings
If your Pontiac has solid lifters, as with the older engines, use a feeler gauge to adjust the rocker arms. Refer to your owner's repair manual for the proper valve clearance, indicated in thousandths of an inch. Loosen the locking nut and insert the feeler gauge blade between the rocker arm and spring. Turn the adjusting screw until you have sufficient drag on the feeler gauge, then tighten the locking nut.
A tile backsplash is an ideal way to finish the kitchen design. Tiles are installed in backsplashes in any number of patterns, materials or colors. While the choice is purely personal, a number of tile designs and materials are used frequently in many homes. From simple to decorative, tile backsplash designs are available to complement every space.
Decorative Tile Designs
Frame the area behind the cooktop to highlight the space.
For many kitchens, a decorative design behind the cooktop works well. Most cooktops measure approximately 6 inches wider than the stove and are a minimum of 20 to 24 inches off the stovetop, which makes the area an excellent candidate for decorative tiles. Frame the area with a chair rail tile or border. On the interior replace full field tiles with decorative tiles of the same size. You can also cut smaller tiles into the corners of larger tiles, or fill the area with nothing but decorative tiles, such as mosaics or a repeating ceramic tile pattern.
Simple Designs
Use an unusual colored tile over the entire backsplash for a simple but effective design.
For modern kitchens, or kitchens that already have a lot of design elements going on, use one tile throughout the space. Subway tiles, square tiles laid in an offset pattern or on the diagonal or a simple tile in a dramatic color are all options to add interest without cluttering the space. Install these tiles through the entire area with no break in the design to emphasize the simplicity. Look for handmade ceramic tiles or tumbled marble tiles to add a small amount of variability to further enhance the design.
Mosaic Tiles
Stone and glass mosaics complete transitional designs.
Mosaic tiles are any type or style of tile that measures 2 inches or smaller in size. A dramatic way to complete a backsplash design is to include mosaics. You can install mosaic glass tiles, stone and glass tiles or ceramic tiles all over the backsplash area, confine them to behind the stove or use them as a decorative border. Mosaic tiles have been used for centuries and can convey an artistic feel to the kitchen while fitting in with both traditional and contemporary kitchens.
Cake and ice cream are popular party desserts. Combining the two favorites into a single dessert eliminates the necessity to decide which cake should be served with what flavor of ice cream. When the ice cream and cake are wrapped up into one dish, it can make it easier to buy and serve, and the ice cream cake is perceived as being a bit more special than ordinary ice cream and cake.
Identification
An ice cream cake resembles a cake and can be made from ice cream or a combination of ice cream and cake. When both ingredients are used to make the cake, the cake and ice cream is typically layered. If frosted, whip cream frosting, instead of sugar-based frosting, is often used. Whip cream frosting compliments the differing textures of the two ingredients better than sugar-based frosting.
History
A popular dessert from the Renaissance era was the trifle, made from biscuits and cream. The trifle is credited as being an inspiration for the ice cream cake. Ice cream was invented in the seventeenth century. Over time, the techniques for freezing the ice cream improved. During the Victorian era, ice cream was molded into shapes. A spongy biscuit sometimes lined the mold, and nowadays this is called a Victorian-styled ice cream cake.
Significance
National ice cream retail companies such as Baskin-Robbins, Cold Stone Creamery and Carvel include ice cream cakes as part of their product lines. These companies offer their own signature ice cream cakes, allowing them to cash in on the birthday and holiday cake market by rolling up the cake and ice cream in one package. Cookie pieces are a popular ice cream cake embellishment. Because ice cream cakes can be molded, the cakes are sometimes presented in non-cake forms, such as a log roll.
Features
Unlike a traditional cake, an ice cream cake is assembled rather than baked. The cake is baked and sliced or cut to be layered or filled with ice cream. During the assembling process, some recipes call for hard ice cream to be cut in slices, while other recipes require a slight softening of the ice cream. After assembling, the finished ice cream cake is refrozen to harden and complete the recipe.
Types
Ice cream cakes can be made from ice cream, ice cream and cake, or ice cream and cookies. When made with cookies, the cookies are usually crushed and mixed with melted butter, then added to a form pan and frozen. After it is taken from the freezer, soften ice cream is spread over the top of the cookie mixture and then refrozen. When the two primary ingredients are solidly frozen into a single cake form, it is frosted with whip cream frosting and decorated with pieces of cookies. It looks like a cake, but is actually cookies and ice cream.
The green light keeps blinking. Resetting does not help. Any suggestions?
George33351, Welcome to the DIY Forums. Need a bit more info on this heater. Model # would help. Not familiar with the green light thing. Thanks.
Originally Posted by George33351 The green light keeps blinking. Resetting does not help. Any suggestions? Assuming it's the electronic Smart one and it was working previously, if it's blinking quietly and you have no hot water, then the controller thinks there's no water in the tank, which could be a sensor defect. If it's making some hot water, and the blinks go with clicks (sounds like a turn signal), then you probably have a bad controller board -- which is easy to swap out. Get out your manual and write down all the information from the water heater (Serial #, model #, date installed, etc...) And then call Whirlpool at the number on the manual. They'll tell you what to do, and supply a replacement part if necessary (most likely under warranty).
Tags: whirlpool, water, heater, green light, blinking Resetting, blinking Resetting does, blinking Resetting does help, blinking Resetting does help suggestions, does help, does help suggestions
Hey guys I'm a first-time home buyer and unfortunately seem to be running into central air unit problems. I've taken a video of both problems. The first one can be summarized as sometimes the AC unit will sound fine, then every 30-45 seconds will start to make a slight buzzing sound that builds up into a loud click. The fan also slows down at this point, then speeds back up. A video of this problem is here: Slight buzz and loud clicking noise on Tempstar unit - YouTube The second problem is a constant buzzing sound. Every few minutes the sound will stop for a few seconds, but always comes back. That can be viewed on this video: Buzzing sound from Tempstar AC unit - YouTube At first I noticed the buzzing sound. After turning the unit off then back on after some time, I noticed the buzz/clicking sound. Turning the unit back off and turning on the heat to test it out, then back on to the cooling, the unit seems to work fine, but the buzzing sound was. If anyone has any advice, that'd be greatly appreciated! B
You sir have a major compressor issue.... time to call a professional. There is nothing that I can recommend a homeowner do with those types of noises/issues.
Welcome to the forums. In your fist video the fan sounds normal and that click sounds like a contactor chattering or an issue with the reversing valve. In the second video it sounds like your fan motor is squealing. The fan is mounted upside down to the very top of the unit.....does that sound like where that noise is coming from ?
Quick update in case anyone in the future finds this thread with similar problems... Short version: a coil broke causing an oil leak, or it may have been the other way around. That's what ultimately caused the AC unit's fan to stop turning on. Long version: the a/c unit was extremely dirty, causing poor air circulation. This led to a coil breaking/oil leak, which then caused an oil leak/coil breaking, depending on which came first. Home warranty covered the repair, only because (from my understanding) our AC wasn't inspected by the home inspector, therefore there was no evidence of what caused the oil leak nor whether it was there before purchase or not. It started breaking three days after closing on the house, and the first three days in the house we had air conditioning. That much I know. The repairman's best guess was the dirty unit caused the issue, but that isn't for sure. Lessons learned: make sure the AC unit gets inspected before moving into a new home, and clean your AC unit (I sprayed mine with a hose and it made a big difference) regularly.
Tags: tempstar, central, unit, clicking, buzzing, noises, buzzing sound, caused leak, coil breaking, sounds like, Tempstar unit, Tempstar unit YouTube, then back, three days
My submersible pump was over 20 years old, not supplying enough water to flush the toilet and take a shower along with blowing the circuit breaker on occasion. It was down 60 feet and I had to figure out unlock the pitless adapter before I could pull out the well. The pitless adapter was made by Wells Inc. in Ohio and can be unlocked by making a tool using a 6 foot, 1/2 steel pipe. Take the pipe, flatten one end leaving enough clearance for the inside to fit over a wingnut and make a handle on the opposite end. The flattened end goes down the 1 pipe that suspends the well and by turning counterclockwise the pitless adaper foot will go down. Make sure the water and pump is turned off before doing this. The well was pulled out using 2 U brackets and a come-a-long suspended from an extension ladder leaning against a tree. This method can bring the ell up at about 3 feet at time before needing to reposition the brackets which I used to hold the well on the side of the 4 well casing.
Hi guys, I hope some one on this board can give me a little guidance. I have an intermittant problem where my standing pilot goes out every now and again. I cleaned the pilot (was already clean) and I replaced the thermocouple already. I also checked the pilot size with the boiler running and it doesn't seem to change from when the boiler is not running. After comparing to my brothers boiler (same model) I came to the conclusion that the pilot may be a little low and possibly blowing out. The gas valve is a Honeywell VR8300C4050 according to Weil-Mclain specs. I attempted to turn up the pilot as shown in the instructions and the screw does not seem to have any affect on the pilot, even if I turned it 2 or 3 times. From past experience on stoves etc. a quarter of a turn is usually enough to make a difference. At this point I'm guessing that I need a new gas valve. Is there any other possibilities that I overlooked? If I replace the gas valve, does it have to be adjusted to my boiler, or is it factory preset to work fine? Thanks in advance for any help. Chris
I have an update..... I forgot to mention that when I first got the boiler (in new house) I replaced the thermocouple after about 1 1/2 years for an intermittant problem where the pilot would fail. After replacing it, I had a failure the other day for the first time, the thermocouple is about 1 1/2 years old again. Well I tried adjusting the flame again, and apparently the pilot screw was so wide open from the factory that it sounded like a blow torch. It took about 3 turns closed for it to do anything. Once I closed it the flame seemed the same height but quiet. I now have a theory on the failures that I have been having. Either the pilot was so strong that it was not a stable flame and would blow out easier, or (the theory that I think is correct) the flame was so strong that it over heated and kept ruining the thermocouples every year or so. Based on my findings I think that the gas valve is fine. What do you guys think?
Anything is possible I guess... one other consideration to keep in mind: Downdrafts in the chimney. Can you correlate the pilot being out with windy conditions?
NJ Trooper, Thanks for the reply. I don't think it's associated with wind. I have been through some extremely heavy winds with no problems, it was pretty nice weather when this last episode occurred. I forgot to mention that I am in a new development, the houses around me have the same boiler and the same chimney system. I asked around and none of my neighbors had a problem in the past 3 years since we all moved in. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I fixed it. So far it's good.....but it's only been 1 day LOL. Thanks again, Chris
Chris, I'm guessing that you've got the paperwork for your valve, but if not, this might be helpful... VR8300 Gas Control I wonder if the installers ever bothered to check/adjust the regulator... I wouldn't recommend that you try this yourself, without the proper gauges it's difficult (and maybe dangerous)... but just a thought... especially with the pilot flame adjustment being all the way out.
Thanks!! It should be fine now.....keeping my fingers crossed!!
Tags: pilot, problem, boiler, about years, boiler running, boiler same, fingers crossed, forgot mention, forgot mention that, guessing that, have been, intermittant problem, intermittant problem where, keeping fingers
Money is an issue........so we've checked Lowes for Engineered wood flooring. We've found something that will suit our needs(read: we aren't in love, but it will work), but wondering if a trip to Lumber Liquidators is worth our time. Does anyone have experience/opinions about Lowes or Lumber Liquidators? Do they carry the same quality stuff? Or does Lumber Liquidators truely carry nicer stuff at better prices???????
If you feel value means low price, the Lumber Liquidators and there badly milled Bellawood and Bruce flooring, will meet your expectations. Order way over the standard 5% for culling!!! Try 20% and you still may need more!!! If your looking for a quality floor that has no issues with milling and fit, Lumber Liquidators is not going to come close to meeting your expectations. The installers they have on their list here, are not prescreened, for your protection. The usual hacks trying to make a quick buck off unsuspecting consumers. You can polish a turd all you want, and it is still just a turd.
thanks for your input...........I'll skip the 2 hour drive to check them out then.....is the quality at Lowes just as bad? We've not had the experience with floors like you, so what is your opinion of Lowes Mohawk?
Sheesh, I should have guessed, especially with their low prices. You get what you pay for. Carpets Done Wright--where would you suggest for a place to get select hard maple for flooring? I need to find a place and LL seemed the best, but perhaps not. Thanks!
I am in your same boat, and looking to save a little money. I have found this site, Hosking Hardwood . The link is to the Bruce Engineered wood flooring, coastal woodlands. It appears like a good place to buy from. I am still trying to find out if anyone out there has dealt with them though. Anyway, this is looking the place I am going to buy from. It beats Home Depot prices buy about 400 even after adding shipping on.
Hoskins is an excellent E-tailer!!! I would suggest looking at flooring stores or hardwood stores and get an idea of what you like. Then get on-line and search the e-tailers for that same product. Don't be affraid to order on-line!!! Places like Hoskins and iFloor have excellent customer service, if there is a concern with the shippment.
CDW - I have searched iFloor. Unfortunately they only sell pre-finished flooring. I think I want to finih mine myself. And I can't find Hoskins via google. Do you happen to have a link to their webpage?
I read this whole thread and am not feeling well anymore. I bought my Bellawood hardwood natural maple 2 weeks ago and it's at home. It looks nice though but haven't seen all the other strips yet. Are they really bad? What does bad milling mean though? Thanks.
I don't think you will be say......disappointed....with the Bella. There are a lot of big names out there when it comes to flooring .....Bella and Bruce being the 2 biggies. I am not sure of the history of these companies but often with companies that are popular they start out with a good product and get popular. They then get a bit too big for their britches and look at $ signs and start to increase advertising while slcacking on the product. What I have seen with Bella and Bruce is pretty much what C.D.W. pointed out. You will have some good pieces and some not so good pieces that can't even be used. A lot of times people have to go out and buy more because they didn't have enough good wood to go around. Most of the time spending the extra buck per square foot and going with a good reputable brand will save in the long run. With all of this said, I am sure you will be happy with your purchase. I have installed Bella before and finished it as well. It is not terrible and nightmarish suff. I did run into a lot of bad pieces once but it was not the end of the world. Just remember in the future to look around and don't be afraid to call a local real professional installer (not Lowes, HD, or LL) and ask their opinion. Installers know SOOOOOO much about the stuff because they deal with it first hand. Good luck and seriously don't lose sleep over you decision.
Tags: lowes, lumber, liquidators, Lumber Liquidators, because they, Bella Bruce, Engineered wood, Engineered wood flooring, good pieces, Lowes Lumber, Lowes Lumber Liquidators, some good, some good pieces
I'm in a small Kentucky town and I need a small room painted. Unfortunately I cannot do it myself, and all the painters I have contacted, bar one, say it's too small a job for them. The one painter who is willing to do the job has given me a quote for a per-hour rate, with a maximum number of hours so I have a ceiling price. How do I know his per-hour price is a good one, seeing as how I don't have anything to compare it to? Is there a professional painter out there who can tell me what a good hourly rate is so I don't get ripped off? Thanks for reading this.
Is this a professional painter or someone who thinks they can paint? It's up to you what route you go depending on how complicated or fussy the work has to be. You might get by, depending on the difficulty of it, with finding someone who can do all sorts of work for you. It is nice to know at least one such person in any town. Someone reliable who does not charge an arm and a leg, and who can help you out in many ways, like unclogging your drain or replacing a broken lightswitch, etc. or do several things during one trip to save you trip charges. If you were to call up a big yellow page ad painter, lets say, who does even commercial stuff and has pressure washers, scaffolding, spray equipment, can spray steel doors like factory, etc., do you think they are going to charge $8 an hour. Not a chance. But you may find someone who can do some walls and ceilings adequately for reasonable, if you ask around. You could contact your local hardware and lumberyard for example as some handypeople put out cards at such places.
I had to chuckle at ecman's comment about those who think they can paint. That's pretty much anyone who can hold a brush in his hand, isn't it? Superdub, I'm not a professional painter, but you could say that I'm more like a professional handyman who does a variety of different tasks, and does them well. In my area, also a small town in a rural area, I wouldn't do your job for less than $30/hr, plus materials. Although you could find someone like ecman mentioned, who think they can paint that might do it for $10-15/hr. Some who are semi-retired can live off that sort of wage and don't have a lot of overhead or a family to feed and put through college. They may or may not do a good job for you. In most cases, if a painter doesn't sand the walls before beginning, isn't using a paint pole, and isn't rolling the walls from floor to ceiling, he probably about as good of a painter as your average Joe.
I can't imagine bidding a small job by the hour. Anyone that does a small job bid that way is likely not a pro painter. You might try calling a paint store [not big box paint dept] and asking them to refer some small time contractors to get bids from. As always - check references!!! One way to determine the prevailing painter's wage would be to ask a couple of the paint contractors what they pay their painters. Call the contractors that said the job was too small - they will be the ones most likely to give you an accurate answer. Labor prices can vary greatly in different regions so any price given here may not reflect the prices in your area.
Thank you so much for replying, ecman51, XSleeper and Marksr. Your comments have helped a lot.
I charge $13.00 an hour for prep, painting, and cleanup. I charge this amount for woodwork and walls. I also charge this amount while I am purchasing the paint and the travel time to purchase the paint. I use good brushes and charge a $5.00 brush use. If I have to purchase rollers etc I charge what I purchase them for. I use a roller, not spraying equipment. I bring all drop clothes, ladders etc. Do you think that this is an adequate charge?
Welcome to the forums jamac915! It sounds a little low in price to me but wages vary in different locations and also vary for skill levels. I also assume you aren't figuring in the cost of a business license, insurance, taxes, cost of equipment and transportation expenses.
I made that working retail...seems low to me. Guess it depends on your skill's and love of the trade.
Multiply the square footage of the space to be painted, not the floor space by one dollar.
Great questions and responses. Like others have already said, it really depends on your area. I just moved to a rural area from a major Canadian city. In the big city, I could charge $25/hr and nobody blinked. Like Xsleeper said, I sand walls/trim before painting, use three different size polls depending on area to paint and apply paint from floor to cieling. I use quality brushes (I DON'T CLEAN THEM AT YOUR HOUSE WHEN I'M DONE FOR THE DAY). My cut ins are clean and straight and when I leave a job things are left clean and tidy. I consider myself quite a good painter. However, lots of people in the rural town I live in now don't expect that and don't want to pay for it. They want a colour change and don't care if you sand the walls first. People rave about what a good deal they got on a paint job, but I walk around looking at it and think wow, I wouldn't pay someone for this job. Sloppy cutting in, rolling over pebbles on the walls, etc. Some of the painters here aren't even using drop sheets when painting rooms with new flooring installed!!! That's insane!!! These customers are wanting to pay $12/hr. I won't bring all my own paint gear and skills to a job for that rate. That being said, it's been a tough winter and I've learned the benefits of eating lots of casserole and cutting the heat back! At this point, I've decided my going rate is $18/hr. This is my first year here and I have to get myself established to break into the market. Now that spring is here, that's starting to happen and I'm slowly building a customer base with people who want a better than average job done. $18/hr is low as far as I'm concerned, but I would rather work than not. As well, given the economy...painting is being bumped a little lower on the priority list in terms of what needs done around the house. Anyhoo, with regards to the original poster I guess you have to consider what the job is worth to you. If nobody else is willing to do it, your options are slim. Ouch, I just saw the date on the previous posts and now I feel a bit silly. I hope at this point the OP is enjoying their now year old paint job on the smallish room. Jamac915, that sounds low. If you're bringing your own gear, can do a better than average job and customers are happy at the end of the day...as they say in poker...Raise it up! As others have said though, this will depend on what your particular market will support. I must remember to look at dates on threads before I spend two Sunday morning coffees worth of time blabbering away on here. Happy Sunday everyone! I'm making more coffee.....
Tags: much, painter, charge, they paint, professional painter, sand walls, think they, better than, better than average, charge hour, charge this